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Exotic
Tangier |
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 None
of this mattered, however, when it came to tourism. Military invasions
do not deter the dozens of ferries that cross from Spain's southern
coast each day into exotic Morocco. Indeed, more concern should go to the invasion of the tourist and her pocketbook. "I feel like I've just been through a war zone," said my friend, whers. "Excuse me, excuse me," they repeated in their relentless mantra, shoving leather- covered camels and cedar boxes in our view. "You must have this. My father weaved it; my mother went cross-eyed making it." We nearly went cross-eyed from the contrasts. On one hand, we had stepped back in time into a primitive, lively bazaar of haggling over leeks and potatoes and hanging skinned chickens; over haircuts and thread spools and herbs that will cure anything. This was the old part of Tangier in a walled-in area called the medina, which surrounds the town's Grand Mosque. Most Moroccan cities are designed this way, with an inner ancient cove and a larger, more modern outgrowth surrounding it. Each side of the wall is like a different time zone, only the time spans centuries. Where the medina reaches its highest peak is known as the kasbah, which offers a spectacular view of the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. The two bodies of water collide at a certain point, and you can tell which is which by the color, making it a splendid discovery. Nearby is the Sultan's Gardens, a lush splash of wealth with its fountains and fruit trees. Other wealthy palaces dot the landscape with their sandy white fronts and carved gates. On the other hand, modern Tangier could be any city, with its honking taxis, nondescript hotels and the cat-and-mouse games between tourists and hawkers. Wealthy Moroccans choose Tangier for holidays because of its coastal breeze and its wild and loose reputation. And yet, inside the medina, pushcarts weave through the burrows, and the rattle and hum of commerce carries its own special rhythm under colorful cloth canopies and draped laundry above.  Here,
along the cobblestone streets flanked by tile-and- stucco walls in
an area known as the Grand Socco, locals proceed undaunted as outsiders
watch their daily habits with enchantment. Their attire is both diverse
and intriguing, with women wearing everything from festive Berber
hats to all variations of veils, and men in everything from traditional
abayas to jeans and a baseball cap. At each turn are everyday wonders in motion: Embroidery stitchers, papaya stackers and a barber cutting hair in a storefront big enough for two. Now and then, the crowded pathway breaks to allow a wheelbarrow of fresh herbs to pass through, or a cart of brown eggs, or a donkey hauling peppers. This fascinating co-existence goes largely undisturbed as locals share samples of bread, olives and more with each other and occasionally with their counterparts who stumble in from a half a world away. Shopkeepers weren't only gracious, but most spoke English and a few other languages. One of the outcomes of Morocco being invaded and colonized so often is a diverse and cosmopolitan culture. Morocco is a kingdom and mostly Muslim, though the country allows freedom of religion. European influence is also strong in northern Morocco, where the people seem to be from everywhere, and the architecture resembles Spain's with its white, boxy buildings. angier is considered the gateway to Morocco, being the first truly substantial town for anyone coming from Spain via the Strait of Gibraltar. For centuries, the town changed hands, from Spain to Portugal to the English, when Charles II used it as part of his dowry.  As
a result, Tangier hardly has any old monuments, mostly because whoever
conquered it last built over what was there before. Shoppers will enjoy Morocco, with its crafts made of leather and camel bone chips, henna lamps and rugs, rugs, rugs. This is where the famous Berber rugs hail from, and silk rugs are just as common. The city's gateway status also means lots of tourists, which means lots of self-appointed guides who lurk outside of hotels to escort anyone leaving. This can be annoying, except that by taking a couple of the guides up on their offer meant seeing parts of Tangier that I probably wouldn't have found on my own, especially within tight time constraints. Most enchanting, for instance, was watching the kasbah wake up Sunday morning, when children padded down the labyrinths to get pails of water and deliver freshly baked bread. Though most Moroccans conform to the Islam religion, no obligation exists to practice. Drinking, gambling -- all of it is allowed -- and Tangier has a persistent reputation for satisfying vices and all the shady side dealings that go with it. Beware, too, of rug merchants who smoothly woo customers into sales with a slick pitch and some mint tea. Eating in Morocco can be healthy, though I brought home an intestinal bug from unknown origins after my trip there. Diets of cous cous, fresh vegetables and various meats and spices are common. Fish generally comes whole, with head and tail attached, the bread is delicious and olives and mint tea are everywhere. Bottled water is a must. The Moroccan coast holds many treasures, including grottos and the Caves of Hercules. Both in southern Spain and Morocco, locals believe the mythical Hercules left his mark on their land. The further south into Morocco, the less European it becomes. Casablanca is perhaps Morocco's most famous city and, as one guide said, is the "the heart of Morocco." Some say other cities capture Morocco's Arabian roots better than this much-trampled town. But Tangier has a genuineness worth experiencing.
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