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Sherrel's Honey-Peach Ice Cream
Stephanie Rosenbaum's new book, "Honey From Flower to
Table," recounts the miraculous journey of honey with
a generous serving of lore and flavor. It's recommended reading
if you have a serious interest in honey production. Entire
chapters cover topics such as backyard beekeeping, recipes
and even craft making. My Grandpa Henry and my mother shared
the love and labor of beekeeping. Mother purchased her first
hives from her father-in-law when I was in elementary school.
She felt the pollination was vital to the success of our peach
orchard. Even with her allergy to stings, she persevered.
You have to love the honey harvest to suit up during the heat
of an Oklahoma summer to smoke those bees and rob the supers.
Light colors such as beige or white are best for working around
bees. (Beekeepers know that dark and bright colors tend to
excite or agitate bees. This is something for us to remember
when heading out for a garden tour or simply to pick squash
or tomatoes. It reduces our chances of getting stung.)
The most popular flavor of honey, of course, is wildflower
honey. This label is something of a catchall, as is the honey
itself. The honey is usually from a variety of pasture blossoms
and may include pollen from nearby fields of alfalfa as well
as native wildflowers. The taste is that of the landscape
itself. Many feel that a purchase of honey indigenous to your
particular locality may be of benefit to various allergies
to particular pollinating plants.
Alfalfa honey and clover and orange blossom honey are some
of the most common American honeys on the market.
When using honey in recipes, measure it easily with an oiled
measuring cup. The entire amount of honey slips right out
and into the recipe. You can substitute honey into most any
recipe that uses sugar by including half of the sugar and
the other half honey. If the recipe calls for one cup of sugar,
use 1/2 cup of sugar and 1/2 cup of honey.
In a liquid measure situation, you should reduce the liquid
called for in any recipe by 1/4 cup for each cup of honey
used. Rosenbaum suggests that one counteract the natural acidity
in honey when baking by adding 1/4 teaspoon baking soda for
each cup of honey used. Honey also speeds up the baking process.
She recommends reducing the oven temperature by 25 degrees
when baking with honey.
Like sugar, honey can actually break down gluten, which is
the natural protein necessary to hold bread dough together.
The recommended ratio is no more than 1/4 cup honey to each
two cups of flour. High-protein bread flour achieves the best
result when making bread with honey.
If honey crystallizes, simply reverse the process by gently
warming the jar in a pan of warm water until it returns to
its smooth liquid state. You can microwave the jar a few seconds
at a time on high until it reaches the desired state.
I am particularly fond of using a honey and butter mixture
brushed on top of bread or biscuits during the last few minutes
of baking. Simply melt a mixture of two tablespoons honey
with 1/4 cup butter, and brush on topof the bread. I also
use honey and olive oil when making large Italian loaves.
Sweeten up your cooking soon with this little miracle. Add
it to a marinade or barbecue sauce. Whip it with butter and
orange rind. Drizzle it over a fresh hot biscuit, or use it
to sweeten ice cream as in the recipe I've included.
However you decide to use it, jars of golden honey harvested
locally are a true taste of Oklahoma in bloom.
Sherrel Jones can be reach by e-mail at feedback@
justdelish.com.
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Spicy Peppers
While chile peppers began appearing in the American
colonies by the 17th century, it wasn't until the 1975
publication of "Hellfire Cookbook" (New York
Quadrangle) that the U.S. chile craze began in earnest.
"People used to assume chiles were only eaten by
nuts," says Dave DeWitt, author of "The Chile
Pepper Encyclopedia." "They thought chiles
all came in one burn-you-out heat level, because they
didn't understand the complexities." This misconception
is disappearing. From the fire-inducing habanero to
the mild, sweet ancho, chiles can elevate a dish from
ordinary to an explosion of the sublime.
"Too many people don't realize chiles have so much
flavor," says Bobby Flay, host of Food Network's
cooking show "Hot Off the Grill." "They
run the gamut from earthy to smoky to fiery to sweet."
While sweet is perfect for some recipes, when brave
eaters get the chile craving, they want to test their
mettle with real heat.
"People want to jazz up their lives and their palates
by adding heat and flavor," DeWitt says. "They
find a heat they like, and then they stick with it.
It provides a major distinction that foods normally
don't have, like putting garlic in your mashed potatoes
or cream in your coffee."
Just be sure to know what your taste buds can handle.
Flay won a bet when his business partner foolishly boasted
he could consume an entire habanero without breaking
a sweat -- then spent a half-hour coughing over a sink
after merely a sliver touched his tongue.
Which brings us to Burn Relief 101. When preparing chiles,
wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly afterwards
to avoid burning your eyes or sensitive skin. Dairy
products and sugar best soothe the chile afterburn for
tongues. So, if you're going to try some fiery flavors,
stay within arm's reach of some milk, yogurt or ice
cream.
It's easy to store chiles for future use. Freeze your
fresh peppers -- you'll lose a little texture but none
of the spice.
"Chop up your roasted and peeled peppers and put
them in an ice cube tray in the freezer to make cubes,
which are much easier to cook with later," DeWitt
advises.
Dried chiles keep well for weeks. To use them, Flay
advocates rehydrating, peeling, seeding and pureeing
to make chile paste for cooking.
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